I worked with an electrician on a hospital job once. It was my first time ever seeing a commercial/industrial grade receptacle up close. I couldn't believe how much nicer and easier they were to wire. Now when I need a receptacle I buy them too.
Your videos are simply brilliant. You keep them simple but extremely informative. Whoever gets to apprentice with you is a very lucky person.
You can also pull and twist them at the same time and will come off. Sometimes easy sometimes hard
Don't daisy chain devices either make sure to pig tail everything makes troubleshooting easier. Had a buddy the other say older house and half of his lights and receptacles went out all because they were all daisy chained off of one outlet that broke internally and started to short tripping the breaker.
Tail it also ,,,supper great connection.
Using the side screws on residential receptacles loosen over time. I had less issues witht the baskstab method. The screws on commercial ones are a much better design though cost a little more.
Yeah I would personally use the commercial grade receptacles especially in basements and garages. Because most people if a receptacle goes bad will replace it if it's in their finished space. But usually if it's in a garage they will just forget about it or at least that's what I've seen.
Thank u so much , I had 0$ and u helped a lot
Any electrician that back stabs their receptacles is lazy and should just go be a plumber.
I would not rely on the "hot stick" your using to verify the power is off. Those are handy in certain circumstances but are unsafe in the instance you show. Always use a real voltage tester, the kind with two prongs, to test for voltage.
Just to warn people a non contact voltage indicator is not an approved or safe method of proving dead circuits. Always use a dedicated 2 pole voltage tester (not a multimeter) and prove before and after on either a proving unit or a known live source.
Push-ins are actually pretty good these days. The copper is held down by a spring. Because copper is rather soft, too much pressure (like in a screwterminal) can make ist Kind of retract and loosening the connection. In cases like this, the spring just readjust and will clamp it down all the time. Btw, these springs are designed in an way, that they will burry themselves into the copper so you can't pull them out that easy.
On my older home we didn't have ground wires in the outlets (receptacle) and it's a hell of a job running a ground wire to every single outlet. so I put in all new outlets with ground and simply put a small pigtail wire to the white wire. The white wire goes to the electrical box that is exactly the same as the ground.
Weird. I don't have those slots on mine. I'm retrofitting all my existing outlets and switches and they were all backstabbed. However, it's a manufactured home so that probably explains the discrepancy and methods for wiring.
You can also use a scrape piece of 14 gauge solid
Lol I never knew thank you Soo much love your Chanel taught me so much
Or BEST yet, get rid of the pass-though connections (series wiring) altogether and install pigtails to connect your device to (parallel wiring). That way you’re not loading every device on the circuit when plugging in something near the end.
How about “ receptical” or electric receptacle - receptacle providing a place in a wiring system where current can be taken to run electrical devices-electric receptacle - receptacle providing a place in a wiring system where current can be taken to run electrical devices electric outlet, electrical outlet, wall plug, wall socket, outlet power point, point - a wall socket receptacle - an electrical (or electronic) fitting that is connected to a source of power and equipped to receive an insert,👍~~~
And if you don't have a small screwdriver a kwikset smart key tool that comes with their door knobs also works
@BackyardMaine